boyesen dual stage power reeds "MOD" for pa50 pa50II camino nc50 na50
honda hobbit pa50 boyesen power reed



Dual stage reed replacement for any honda hobbit moped - these come in two varieties - This version is for modded mopeds - i.e. if you have a ported or larger cc cylinder. The other version is for stock bikes.

These reeds have two layers - one stiffer than the other, so they are able to function as both low end reeds and hi end reeds too. What you get, in short, is "the best power increase for your money" according to boyesen. I find it particularly telling that boyesen, the worlds premier reed company, refers to themselves as "the gatekeepers of power", I name I would love to have for myself in my dream world. These reeds offer an immediate noticeable increase in power.

MOD reeds = large stiff reed = 0.6mm thick - smaller two petal reed = 0.3mm

reed is 32.2mm x 38.6mm

also works with: beta tempo 50, piaggio axis / jog 50 and yamaha zuma 50 (2002 - 2009)

taco rating taco rating 4 of 5 4 of 5 Total Reviews: 8 give your taco rating here

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4 of 5 Pa50, Camino won't have this problem August 6, 2016
taco eater : Anthony Gagnon from Medina, OH United States  
78 Honda nc50, vm20, wizard 7-port, mlm people's exhaust, stock reed block and arrestor  (curvy metal part that backs the reeds). I didn't forsee the thick reed being so stiff (won't flap till engine is over 4k). Big intake+big carb+small reed opening at low rpm and full throttle=loss of vacuum in intake, which means loss of velocity through venturi. No velocity past the venturi means you engine isn't sucking gas out of the float bowl.

Result? Impossible to tune carb between 1/8-full tilt at low revs so i switched back to stock reeds and all my problems are gone. Once revs were up past 3k, everything was golden. Going .4mm single stage reeds next, will report.

Side note: After some maths (area of thin reed opening vs area of venturi x-section) I'd wager you could probably get away with using the reed mount bar that comes with it (I was using the long curved stock one), but for my setup I would recommend a carb no larger than 17-18mm with an intake to match.

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5 of 5 dah, September 22, 2013
taco eater : Ass Hauler from Portland, OR United States  
I had 70cc with a bigger carb n exhaust... and the stock reeds were obviously restricting... I threw these boyseens in there, and im happy bashtard. If you have a kitted hobbit, you need one of these... ya dingus

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3 of 5 I'm still skeptical March 22, 2012
taco eater : jason kluczyk from chicago, IL United States  
Maybe I just weight too much, but I didn't really notice a difference going from stock reeds to these.

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3 of 5 Coxbros March 1, 2012
taco eater : David Cox from Energy, IL United States  
still up in the air on these, got them on 4 of my bikes, cant really tell if there is any difference but a must if u go nitrous injection, stock metal reed bend on  first hit of spray

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4 of 5 Great while they last! July 5, 2011
taco eater : ShaneB from Michigan  
These things are great for a wide array of tuned Hobbits, but they will either wear out, break, or maybe mysteriously both??? The first stage reeds are flippy-flappy and weak and can get bent and cause your case to not seal up right. On a different set I had one reed break off and get eaten by my engine after about 250-300 miles, max. This was a really beefy built, but still, I can't have my engine sucking in fiberglass reeds ever few hundred miles. These also can give you a good amount of blowback vs. something stiffer like carbons. You might be better off with the .3mm carbons on a normal build and the .4mm on something baller. Up to you.

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